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I'd expect there's still another 10-15 mm left before it hits the bottom of it's stroke .
Some penetrating oil around the bore might free it up . It might take a few applications to free .
'76 Bultaco 143 Frontera
'68 YG5T 80 Trailmaster
64 McClane Edger
RT325 wrote: Looks like it's almost there. Need a good strong flywheel holding tool to add some force to it but looks like you'll have to unbolt the cylinder & put blocks under it. Turn the crank to lift it all up, fit blocks then force the piston down. But it looks a bad case i must say. but might not be much rust lower down as piston is near the bottom. No use trying to turn the nut & needs more force than that. Here's a link to ages ago on my YG1T. The old girl ran perfect using same piston & rings. Might be a page before or after showing more. Can see the holding tool & had a pipe on that too--pretty brutal free or bust job. I can see the pipe looking again, but slid it out longer & thought something was going to break or shear a crank key, then felt a slight movement, so then other way, then see saw back & forth until it freed up. In saying that i think mine was more corrosion into the bore where yours is gross rust & lots of it. Also yours is on first oversize but i'm sure you've seen that.
Thanks, yes the blocks under will eliminate needing an extra set of hands and sounds like my best bet...Just slow and easy but not to easy
Obviously the weight of my GT550 proved very useful here. The advantage of doing it "my" way is that you don't have to hit down on the crank.