VAPE Regulator/Rectifier is powered by two black wires coming from the stator (AC).

The red wire out of the VAPE regulator/rectifier is supplying a nominal 12v+ DC.

That red can deliver over 10 amps DC so adding a fuse there is just an added safety measure.

My brother and I followed your directions to the letter. We attached the red wire from the VAPE regulator to its own 15A fuse box, which attaches to the two greens and the yellow wire from that cluster of wires. 

The black and white wire has been taped off and is no longer connected to anything. 

The red wire from the harness is now directly attached to the positive of the battery by itself. The brown wire of the VAPE is still attached to the negative of the battery. 

We have attached the rectifier module to the red and white wires that come out of the harness. 

With that completed, we still don’t have light in either the headlight or the cluster lamps. My brother and I think something may be off in the rat’s nest in the headlight. 

What do you think? 

 

Do you have the engine running?

Yes, did have it running, also confirmed that the 12v bulbs and headlight bulb(12v)  work off the bike (not blown). I’m wondering if it’s something to do with the wires in the headlight bucket? 

I should have known better when I asked if the lights worked before you installed the VAPE and you didn't answer.  It could be anything.  Yellow powers the headlight switch on the handlebar which you said was screwed up?  I'd say that might be the problem area where you need to start?

If you want to test without having to start the engine, remove the rectifier and connect the red and white to each other.  That will let the battery power the yellow where you made your connections.  Or connect the yellow to the battery +.  Check and make sure you have 12v at the yellow and then follow it through the headlight switch until you find the issue.  . 

We can't see your "fuse box" or switches or wiring or anything else, only you can. The headlight switch could be hooked up wrong too.  There is a yellow in to the on-off switch and a yellow out from the hi-lo beam switch.  Need to see the details.

 

Okay, just plugged in the red and white from the harness together (which normally plug into the rectifier). The gauge lights and headlight finally come on! When I flip the lights to “ON”, on the lights switch the headlight and gauge lights come on, when I turn the key on AND off, I can turn the lights on. The tail light goes off when “key-off”. Is this an okay setup to have work? Essentially as of right now, everything technically works, what do you think might have caused it to not work prior, if it didn’t work until I plugged them in together? 

Now it's being powered by the battery.  And yes, like I said before the headlight and dash lights will work with key off. 

Either you didn't have the engine running, the VAPE is not putting out 12v+ at the red wire, or you didn't have the red from the VAPE connected to the yellow...  maybe your fuse box connections or something?

Not there.  I can't see or test anything. 

From the sound of it, your battery will go dead eventually if you don't figure out if VAPE is putting out power with engine running.

There are two separate black wires from VAPE stator that should go directly to VAPE regulator/rectifier.  There's normally a nice plastic connector. In your picture it's hard to see that the wires go there and the connections(?) are covered with tape and rubber or something?  The black wires need to be kept SEPARATE and they are not grounds and cannot be connected to ground. 

Anyway, can't see what you have.

Case of regulator/rectifier needs to be grounded to frame.  Looks like you did that but can't be sure from pictures.  Especially since screw it looks like you used is part of something that's mounted with rubber bushings.

This image is hidden for guests.
Please log in or register to see it.

om/a/05MeYlj

Those two black wires were the culprit. They were indeed connected when they shouldn’t have been. We separated them individually as well and reconnected the rectifier to the red and white wire.

Now, both the headlight and cluster lamps come on slightly when we kick it over and no doubt will be bright when it’s running. I can’t believe we finally got it and I’ve never seen the headlight on this bike run before. I cannot thank you Mark and RT for helping, you folks have the premier set of skills and knowledge. Thank you all so much!!!! Now onto fixing the crank seal issue (tons of white smoke, barely starts etc.) thanks! 

Congratulations!