Hey folks, if anyone has installed a VAPE ignition system, I really need some help.

I’ve got everything wired up as they say and I’ve finally got spark! Yay! Now here’s the hard part, I’ve got this black wire coming off the relay that comes with the VAPE system. 

The instructions are not clear and I’ve contacted them and they really didn’t have a good answer. They say in the instructions to “connect the black wire to the wire that did run previously to a pin carrying voltage when the switch is on”. The translation from Czech is a little rough which causes some confusion.

My goal is to have spark when the key ignition is in the “ON” position, and when the kill switch is in the “RUN” position. Then, when I hit the kill switch, the spark goes away.

Simple enough. The kill switch wire is black and white, so I thought that I’d plug it into the B/W wire in the headlight. Following that logic, I thought I’d plug the black relay wire into the B/W wire in the harness. No spark at all, regardless of position of  key ignition or kill switch.

When I switch the kill switch into the “OFF”, it should kill spark.

When I put the black wire of the relay into brown wire of the key ignition harness, it allows me to have spark when the key is on and I’m able to kill it when I have the kill switch B/W wire attached to the brown wire in the headlight cluster. 

I thought this was my solution until I attached the battery. I used this combination and it blew my fuse once the battery was attached. 

So, the ultimate goal is to be able to kill the power with either the key ignition or the kill switch, while a battery is attached. 

If anybody has had this issue before, I would love your insight. For reference, I have a 1975 Yamaha DT175, using a VAPE System 735379900-102-4.

Don't use the relay at all!!!!!!

Connect your original black/white kill wire to the blue coming out of the VAPE ignition coil/CDI module

What is the relay for in this case? And if I do what you’re talking about, this is for if I run it with the battery right?

You should have 3 basic components.  I can't see what you have, and I don't know why you even got a relay with your kit, so I'm going to describe the basic Powerdynamo/VAPE system you should have.  (I helped Powerdynamo develop the kits for the Yamaha 125/175 Enduro...  Powerdynamo sold to VAPE when the owner of Powerdynamo had to retire due to health issues.  VAPE was one of the primary component suppliers for Powerynamo.)

1. The flywheel/stator on the engine

2. The Regulator/rectifier box (powered by two black wires from the stator...  has the red output wire and brown ground)

3. The ignition coil/CDI box. (connects to stator with three wires, also has one blue wire coming out of it separate from the 3 wire harness to stator.)

If you ground the separate Blue wire that comes out of the ignition coil, it kills spark.  THIS IS EXACTLY HOW THE ORIGINAL YAMAHA DT175 SYSTEM KILLS THE SPARK. 

No "relay" is needed on your bike.  The relay is needed when installing a magneto on a bike that was originally battery ignition like the 125 Enduro with 12v starter/generator.  On those, the key switch turns off battery power to the ignition to kill spark so you need a relay to ground the blue wire when you turn the key off and unground the blue wire when you turn the key on.  Again, your model does not require a relay. 

That worked perfectly! Thank you so much!!!!!

I have one other issue, when I plug in the flasher relay it blows the fuse no matter which one I put on, and the prongs aren’t marked via color so I’m not sure which cord to connect to which, there’s three cords and this is now a 12v system with 12v incandescent bulbs. 

Maybe one is going to earth when it shouldn't be. Could check the three wires to see which is live & then [i'm guessing] one should go to the flasher switch & i'm thinking without switch set to left or right there should be an open reading?. When left or right you'd have bulb resistance showing but not a total short. Then there's the third wire--umm--what's that for. Or is it the old type that [guessing again] it needs earthing through 'that' wire to operate. The big shiny unit "not the small type" & those small type might be only two wire anyway. You could test the flasher just as straight lights by touching the power to the one going to the switch. [Now another guess]--live will be brown & live up to the switch will be brown & white!!. Then [not guessing now] left & right from the handlebar switch will be dark green & dark brown --not sure which is left or right but those colors anyway. Ok, back to mowing lawns, stopped raining.

Original flasher had 3 wires because one was ground. Very uncommon these days, on modern flashers the third wire is "pilot lamp" and will blow fuse if you connect the Yamaha ground wire to it!

Best solution is to get a TWO wire flasher. Then connect the brown to X terminal and brown/white to L terminal. You don't need the ground wire with modern flashers.

Or you can disconnect wire from the "P" terminal of your three wire flasher and tape up or insulate the terminal on the flasher somehow so it can't short out. See above for how to connect the wires to X and L terminals.