I replaced the bushing in the swing am on my DT125, according to the service manual torque should be like 47-72 ft/lb, in the trque range the swing arm is solid and does not move at all. Seems like it should have some movement but maybe I am wrong on that, just wanted to double check with other people before I buttoned everything back up

Helpful to include more identification like the year of your bike.

Doesn't sound right but some early models didn't have the best system with the encapsulated rubber bonded bushings.  Here's a post on what one member did.  www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forum/r...project?start=10#396

Other and later models had a different system that is much better so the above is ONLY for the encapsulated rubber bushing models without the removable inner sleeve. 

Glad to see that post you linked. I've done the same on both of my CT1s for that very same reason. I used nyloc jam nuts. 

Mine is a 74, it just uses the bolt and a nut and lock washer, I thought maybe I was missing a washer but I double checked the service manual and the 125's didn't have a washer like some of the other models of the same year. That nyloc nut seems like a good idea.

 Bottom line is its gotta be done up tight, good & tight . Arm has to revolve around the spacer==bush i see its called but ok inner & outer bush then. If ya bolt is not Tight the whole lot will skid around on the bolt. So, problemo--If you pushed the inner through with little effort then it can only be lack of the center bit sticking out past the outer bush. You will need a millimeter or more proitruding each end because i see a washer in the cap in the parts pic for bush to bear on so you need 'that' much sticking out plus a bit more---tis a fine line or you'll get sideways movement. Another thing to watch is the center spacer/bush leaves its mark in the cap compressing a bit of a dent so one more thing to calculaste into the equasion. Says a lot for the earlier stretchy rubber bushes that never wear out on AT1,2,3. Pic coming on edit.

RT325....  that's the later type.  And yes, you are correct those later models must have inner sleeve/bushing stick out but I think 74 DT125 had the earlier AT/CT rubber in between steel sleeves type. 

Sorry Mark. I saw DT125 "74 which to me is the A model, so i'm in a learning curve--only taken [howmay years haha]. So run it by me please. Is it the old frame but electric start later motor, no that wouldn't bolt in--i dunno, Cheers.

The US model DT125's were all the "old style" electric start engine and (similar) frame until 1976.... used the early AT/CT swingarm bushing design.

The US 175 got the new twin shock frame (and engine design) in 1974....  used the long inner bushing type swingarm.

 

That's good, thanks Mark. So back to his original post problem [what was it lol] If it has the failsafe ruber bushes you can't go wrong by the way they're designed. They stick out both ways & bolted up solid--as tight as ya can. Then its all bouncy bouncy. Good idea to start off neutral with shocks bolted on the tighten the S/arm bolt so rubber stretch starts then & not hanging on the ground then pull it up to the shocks after tightening. So back to Mr SRSNOW [come in please]--is it rubbery springy without shocks on. Are we on the right track. What day is it, crap weather here, terrible & gotta go get wood.

It was pretty solid, hard to get a good feel as if I am too rough on it it gets unstable on the stand. New issue is the replacment swing arm I got to replace the one the shop bent when replacing the bushings is bent in a whole different way.