I am wondering why my 175 has 6 frictions and 5 pressure plates when manual shows 5 frictions and 5 pressure plates.  With 5 frictions installed pressure plate bottoms out before clutch can engage.  My question is am I missing spacer or something?  Neutral is very hard to get into also.  I'm looking for some expert advice please.

Not an expert but--do you think the plates have been replaced at some stage & ended up being fractionally narrower aftermarket plates. Doesn't take much overall to equal one steel thickness. Looking at the parts link it's drawn wrong if yours has this type of pressure plate, & if so, a steel needs to be last in so the splines take up the drive instead of the spring posts. So steel shown with No6 should be against No9 pressure plate. Of course if your pressure has a driving spline then a fiber in last. In saying that it wouldn't matter if you needed to add one steel, just put them together in the middle. I can't see any of that causing neutral hard to find. If No7 cushion rings are there then toss them out!!. Is the clutch lifting enough. Pull the lever with cover off & watch it lift then revolve the wheel in gear--say top gear for a slow turn--& watch the plates turn. One other thing probably not relevant is if he clutch center is tightened many times over the years you can end up with the center binding from zero clearance on spacer & things. If this happens you can feel it with plates removed & will be hard to turn. Had the odd earlier model at work from bad factory machining where the first time we had to get in there for broken kickstart gear or something, on tightening the center nut she came up solid almost, so had to do a bit of trickery to the small kick gear on the back of the clutch to add clearance. Probably irrelevant in your case.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1974/dt175a/clutch

I know my manual shows no9 pressure plate to no6 steel as you have stated and My pressure plate looks same as pictured.  So maybe I will run 6 plates as you have said. I threw away old frictions so I cant measure them but I'm wondering if they weren't thicker than 3mm as is what's called for in my manual and what my new frictions are. I put clutch together an rode it today with 6 frictions and 5 steels and it operates as it should.  I just dont want to wear down pressure plate by having it contacting a  friction instead of a steel.  Thank you for clarifying that because I was confused seeing it pictured different between ipc  and manual. 

A little update while riding clutch slips. I will be working on it next week but maybe I should be looking for a better mechanic. I think it may be the spacer and 0 clearance as RT325 says.

Hmm, not sure what i said, but spacer short & center binding would--could-- be causing clutch to hang on when trying to select neutral, providing nothing else is left to cause it to do with plates & stuff. Easy to check, just plates out & see if center revolves free or very tight to turn. Not related to slipping under power though, but Best of luck.

I am still waiting for new steel to arrive.  So I decided to replace crankshaft seal while I wait. Oops.  Right seal has springs on both inside and outside unlike my replacement which has only a one spring.  Now I dont know which way to install replacement since it's different from original. I keep digging myself Deeper and deeper.  Oh and I can find neutral every time it's got a sweet spot.  And there is no binding between engine and gear drive spine so that's good.  I thought I would be riding by now but maybe this fall.

Only one i can find despite googling only shows one side spring. Two would be better but regardless--the spring in your case goes towards the bearing.
www.jmpbparts.com/keerring-rd-dt-ty-28x40x8-krukas-rechts.html

Did you buy an original Yamaha seal from Yamaha?  Clutch side (right) should have 2 springs.  Ignition side (left) only has one but best to use a 77-79 IT175 seal on that side.

I just bought generic seal kit for dt175 I think that original type seal can be found but I found that the part number for original dual spring seal is often replaced by different part number and it is the single spring and considered equivalent. So I will run the single spring and hopefully wont have problems. I kinda wish I didn't mess with it but after bike warmed up it wasn't running well and would die. So I figured since I had the seal in my kit just replace it. Is the 77-79 IT175 seal for the right clutch side? If it is the proper double spring seal I will get it.

The clutch side IT175 seal is the same part number as your DT175 seal.   

The ignition side seal for the IT175 is the same size but better than the original seal as it's a true dual lip dual spring seal.  

Skimping on crank seals is false economy in my experience.  Crank seals need to seal both pressure and vacuum and only an SD dual lip dual spring seal does that well.  But it's your bike. If you want to risk air leaks and poor running use cheap generic seals. 

I don't know why Yamaha used a single lip single spring seal on the DT175 ignition side.  It's a better quality seal than generic of the same size though.  The YZ and IT got the true dual lip and using it has solved poor running issues for me more than once.