So a chain of events ended with me bringing home this bike.


I have no plans to restore this bike, nor do i want to drastically modify it. I plan to do exactly what it was meant for. Ride it on the dirt roads, mild trails and around town now and again. The main reason i bought this guy was to teach my kids to ride and this fit the budget and goals for that project. Light weight, low seat height, low power, relaxed geometry, cheap easy for THEM to work on.

I have list of things i need to get for it.
Brake pads
Fork seals
Shocks rebuilt/replaced,
Gauges, Tach and spedo cable.
There is a crack on the intake boot, engine side. It has a surge at low rpm, I'm assuming its from the intake, want to get that replaced before it leans itself out and eats itself up
. Probably a good idea to put a plug and new points in it.
I'm guessing there is a plastic on the lower rear right side that is missing?
The steering head bearings are a little kotchy, so im sure i need races/cups. Or are they just loose balls in there? If so what size?

I'm sure there is more that i'm missing. I am a motorcycle mechanic, racer and builder, but i know zero about this old guy.

Any place y'all get your parts from? Anything that is a common failure or abnormality about these bikes? Any advice or tips welcome, as well as leads to any of the parts i need.

Thanks guys,
Andy

Congrats on getting the bike, I love a nice chain of events.
You have a good plan.
If the steering bearings are not pitted, you can sometimes getaway with greasing.
Be sure to check the wheel bearings and the swing arm movement with the shocks off.

Looks like you have a dually 3500 Silverado, LBZ?, '06-'07?

Balls in steering are 3/16" and 1/4".

If you need the races, buy them from Yamaha... High quality ball bearings can be had from an bicycle shop, Amazon, dozens of places for a fraction of what Yamaha charges.

Thanks, wheel bearings seem good, ill check the pivot bearings when i start diggin in tomorrow.

It is nice to read that there are no large knows issues besides the brake shoes, which where on my list to replace.

Unfortunately in searching for the short-list of my long list of parts that i need, the first big one was the intake boot (maybe intake manifold is more appropriate terminology). The only one i can find is on ebay at over $100..

Do you have a recommended parts source for things like that? I was able to find the wear-able parts. .. . brakes, fork seals, carb rebuild kit, plugs etc, at normalish prices.. But that intake price shocked me. Back at our forum we have a man, J.D. Hord, who runs a shop and supports our community to a huge extent, so we try to send all our business there. Is there a similar place on here? Is that intake crack common? I would imagine on a 45 yer old rubber part that it is.

Oh, is the oil injection system robust, or do most people just pre-mix the fuel and disable it?

And the dually is a 07, 3500 Classic with the Duramax in it. It is a great truck. The farm i run technically owns it. The trucks i own are a 2500hd of the same year and 97 a e-350 van with a 7.3. All good vehicles. The van i mainly use to haul my race bike and camp out of at the track. It has 350k on it. Dually has 230k and still feels like new. My tuck has 90k and a 6.0 vortec, the lq4. Love of having older vehicles that can still do their job's just fine. Though the 7.3 is the only one that gets good mileage.

Thanks Mark. Good to know.

Will the 77-78 intake work on this bike? That's $35 where the 75' is $109?

Bolt pattern changed on the 77 monoshock reed valve, so no...

I just rebuilt my 74 DT 360's forks and rear shocks, I believe identical to yours. In case, you aren't familiar w/them, here are a few things I noticed rebuilding mine.


Rear Shocks.
- a 4mm spanner tool helps to remove the shock cap.
- You can buy new seals here: www.nthrepro.com/
- once you get the shock body cap off, clean both sides of the threads well. Will make assembly easier. At least mine were very tight.

Front Forks:
- loosen up up the fork caps ( 22mm ) before taking the forks out of the triple tree. You need tension on the fork tube to remove cap.
- dump oil out first
- take the allen head bolt ( 8mm ) out of the bottom of the shock before pulling fork cap and spring. This puts tension on the connecting point inside the shock and keeps it from rotating during install or removal.
- LIGHTLY heat shock housing near seal and it will easily pop out. lightly = housing should not change color only get warm.
- place the metal retaining ring on top of the new seal when tapping in. I used a socket that was basically the near diameter of housing.

Ok, thanks. I'm guessing the smaller bikes are a no go as well? I ordered a seat foam and cover, fork seals and dust covers and a carb rebuild kit. Working on points and condenser now.. I may have to just bite the bullet and pay the piper the $110 for the correct intake.

Oil injection is excellent. If you want greater peace of mind, PM DEET here, and send it off to him for a professional rebuild. He's done 5 or 6 of mine. Worry free.