Working on a semi resto on this bike - Hats off to Dale Sweger for re-doing my crankshaft.  Anyway, I have it all apart and as I did so I noticed the Tach cable was missing from the housing.  Once split I noticed the tach gear seems to hangup as it is rotated and perhaps a shim or something else like a bushing is worn or is missing as is it goes into the recess.  I would guess this is why the cable likely broke.  

So how do I get that gear out?  The keeper is off, but not sure how to pull the housing and gear up and out.  Any help is appreciated.  

78dave

That area has a tendency to get crude in it.   I removed the plastic oil pump wheel to get access to bottom of gear, then tapped it LIGHTLY w/small punch on bottom and it slid right out the top.   Polish, reinstall you should be good.  The bush is avail and can be replaced, but may not be necessary. 

hopefully this is what you are referencing:

  
 

Thank you so much - Yes i can see the small punch indention so I should be able to get it out. Thanks again.

Note, not that indention in pic above, I was referencing the VERY BOTTOM of the gear.

It came out easily. Glad I pulled the plastic gear as I see the seal under it I need to replace. The bushing is not real smooth for some reason so I might just clean it up. It sure seems like there should be a washer or something between the gear and the bushing.

I think they consider the flange on the bushing the washer you may be looking for. I guess a guy could treat that like a car differential. Paint it and look for spacing. If too low, add a brass shim maybe.

Most modern car diffs are "hypoid" gears that have an offset and tapered pinion that engages with a ring (aka crown) gear.  Completely different animal that requires careful shimming .

Shimming the Yamaha tach driven gear up or down won't do anything to the gear engagement, different type. 

And yes, the shoulder on the lower bushing is basically a thrust bearing.

No one has really reported, that I have read, "hey my tach gear is put in wrong by Yamaha or clearances were wrong...". That said, MANY have had cable breaks for various other reasons, mostly from no maintenance.
The cables do age and wear out and often lack lubrication. Shimming won't help that. They can twist in the center or other places and not appear to move.

In any case, I have a new cable I'm putting on my 175. Got it from HVCycle. Should last 50 years w/no maint right? Haha.

Thank you all - I was able to clean up the bushing and the bottom of the gear as both had a couple of scars form something. Smooth now - quick question - do I have to use an OEM tube from the autolube pump to the cylinder head or is there a tubing I can use? I know the slip crimp has to slid up to hold on to the banjo fitting on the cylinder head Thanks all

You can almost certainly buy original Yamaha, so go for that. You may have to cut it to length.