In serious talks with a seller for a '72 Yamaha 125. He's the second owner and has owned it since '95. Has 2,242 miles on the odo. All features work (even the turn signals are in place), but it does have some geriatric issues:

* The key end may be broke off in the key hole. (Small screw driver works to rotate it for use.)

* The starter doesn't have the oomph to turn it over cold.

Otherwise seller says it's a one or two kick starter when cold, one kick when warm. A pic:





Key:

I will need the code number to ever have a hope of replacing it, correct?

Starter:

Seller says he uses cheapo batteries. Could be that, OR would it more likely be brushes? (And pray it isn't a winding on the armature!)

Input?


Thanks!

V-man

For a start , that's a 73 AT3 . It would have been manufactured in 72 , hence the confusion .
There will be a number stamped onto the ignition switch , which is the key number .
Replacement keys are often found on Ebay , or some locksmiths can cut one to your number .
Getting the broken piece out might be a bit more of a mission , maybe a strong magnet might
do it .

Thanks for your input Swoop56!

So it's a '73 model year?

Not being savvy on Yamaha 125 Enduro's, I was going by the seller's description. He may have done the same thing I do: Look at the I.D. tag on a headstock's and call it good.

It really gets confusing on the European vinduro bikes. Those often didn't have specific "model years" per se and didn't change much over the year or two they were offered in the US. My '72 DKW is a classic example. According to the VIN stampig on the headstock (there was no I.D. tag), the bike was mfg'd in July of '72, yet on the old title it was listed as a '74. Likely it was delivered to the US third quarter of '72 and sat on the warehouse/showroom floor/whatever and didn't sell until '74, thus was tagged as a '74.

Hoping for the best on the key situation. Is the ignition key switch an enclosed unit thus preventing me from pushing it out from below? (They're not an enclosed unit on Zundapp/DKW's.)

If enclosed with little hope of disassembling, perhaps it would be best to try to find an ignition key switch w/matching key on eBay?

Anyway, I shall inform the wife that she's actually getting a '73 model year.

V-man

Cracking find!

A master locksmith should be able to get the broken key out and provide a replacement for no more than $20 or so (I am in the UK and would expect to pay £10 to £15).

As has been hinted at already, electric start issues likely to be brushes, battery, a combination of both or maybe just dirty connections.

Hi Great Uncle Al! (Clever nick, there!)

The seller indicated during our phone conversation that he has a habit of using cheap batteries. He also said he would charge the battery overnight and this morning will try a cold start, which is where the actual starter issues lie. (He indicated it reliably hot starts via the starter.)

Overall, we're happy with the prospective deal. The fact that the seller has offered to meet us halfway to make the exchange will save us another 10 hours of driving and an overnight stay and makes the $1600 price an even better value. The seller is supposed to video the bike this morning and forward the video to me. Said video illustrating that all the gadgets and gizmos work. Unless something catastrophic rears its head, I figure we'll commit to this bike and make arrangements to take delivery.

Once home with it, I will be removing the turn signals and safely storing them. I will also need to procure/install a mirror each side of the handlebars. (Note to self: Make sure the seller doesn't have mirrors stashed before ordering a set.)

The wife would like it to look the best it can look without a total disassembly for frame painting/etc, and doesn't mind some of the worn parts getting repainted (such as the chain guard). I will also be cleaning the oxidation off the engine cases and fork sliders/etc using Happich Semi-Chrome tube paste, as well as cleaning up some portions of the frame and swing arm for touch up painting. Of course, the tank and fenders will get polishing compound and waxed to make them the best they can be. I also intend to pull the exhaust, remove the chrome heat shield, and sand/repaint the exhaust.

Lots of little things can be done to make turn it into a really sharp little AT3 without overtly sacrificing its originality.

All fer now!

V-man

Gr8auntiepat has a RD200DX (coffin tank model that wasn't sold in the US) that she has owned since 1981. The 200s were, I think, the only RDs with an electric start. Alas, she hasn't ridden this or her FZX700 Fazer for donkeys years.

Received the video via phone. The little AT3 started using the E-start. Sounds good. The ride around looked good (shifted fine/etc). The turn signals function as does the tail light, brake light, and high beam indicator. Couldn't tell if the neutral indicator light worked. I couldn't understand all he was saying, as the bike was idling during the walk around, but I did get enough to say the headlight didn't work. (I "think" he said it was burned out.)

Quick question before I call and purchase this bike:

Is the headlight a sealed beam unit or a bulb-in-the-back type affair? Also, whatever it uses, IS IT AVAILABLE and WHERE?

Thanks for any input.

V-man

" Hey, that's a nice bike" ! As the cop in terminator 2 said.
I am a fan of the AT although i don't have one .
The start up problem could be down to the battery. The good thing is yours isn't 6V system.
None the less.I have had a problem with the indicators on my little HT1.It was starting to get on my wazz.
I traced it to the switch . Couldn't see any problem . Looked everywhere and tried everything, still traced back to the switch.
I polished the clean copper contact bar which is held in a small plastic housing. Problem solved. Lit up like a Christmas tree.
Check all the earths. Ensure you have a good fully charged battery.
Clean all the contacts and check the brushes and commutator.
Remember You get VD from dirty contacts. An adage burned in my mind.
Good luck and welcome along .
Regards Shyted

Thanks shyted.

This will be my first dealings with a Yamaha 125 twin shock offering w/E-start. Way "back when" we purchased a new one in '77 for the wife, but by that time it was a monoshock and called a DT125.

ALL:

It appears to be a sealed beam unit. Trying to determine alternate sources as I type.

EDIT: Can anyone provide me with the diameter of the headlight? (Wringing my hands in OK. )

V-man

I think 5.5" maybe 6", for certainly it's not an unusual size and in 12v will be readily available to get one that fits, but is hard to adjust. That said, unless the 12v system is far superior to the 6v system, personally I'd never plan on riding it at night.