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Makotosun

Best way to fix a seam leak on an otherwise solid DT1E tank?

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I simply used a gas tank liner to fix tanks with very small pin holes like that before and they've all held up great. no need to heat it up n destroy the paint
06 Dec 2021 10:31 #11

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  • msavitt
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akara - sealing sounds like a terrific option since i would hate to toast my clear coated faded paint
can you recommend a particular brand of sealer?
thanks
 
06 Dec 2021 16:25 #12

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I tried red coat on a DT100 tank and it did work for a while but the tank had so many pin holes and some larger seam issues it eventually failed. I don't think it was a fair test and this product seems to have lots of fans out there. If you go that route make sure you let it dry for at least a week and that you can't smell any off gassing still occurring. The tank has to be completely clean, free of moisture, rust, oils and you have to be fast with it before it dries in clumps. Worst case if doesn't work and you have to remove it. I think acetone will get it out. Lots of youtubes out there on this one.
06 Dec 2021 17:16 #13

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I HATE liners.  Most make such a mess when they fail...  and the thicker ones always seem to fail.  Could have have been poor prep?  I don't know, it's always been on used bikes someone else lined.

That said, I did use POR15 fuel tank sealng kit on my MG1T...  has held up for years.

 
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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06 Dec 2021 18:07 #14

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My goal is no leak and not destroying visible finish, so perhaps I buff the seam down and solder edge (one of the few things I can do well) or have same mig welded?

so much great input, going to sleep on this and see what happens with my offer on an alternate tank and then act. 
06 Dec 2021 19:34 #15

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I would recommend TIG over MIG. 

But if you know how to solder and can get the metal clean enough to stick, that should work awesome. 

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1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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06 Dec 2021 19:48 #16

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From my experience, having silver soldered both seams at the rear of the tank on a DT1, it just doesn’t hold up to the vibration long term. Looks great, doesn’t leak for quite a while, but eventually opens back up. Brazing is so much stronger but definitely will destroy your paint. 
68 DT1 003325
09 XT250
06 Dec 2021 20:20 #17

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I have patched several with J&B Tank Weld, Petrol/fuel resistant. Can be pressed into hole or split and surface cleaned, let cure and touch-up paint.
06 Dec 2021 20:56 #18

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I've used the POR-15 and it seems fine, but given the choice in this situation I would have it TIG or MIG welded.
I don't want to have to deal with a failing liner in the future.
Yamaha CT1 007
Yamaha CT1-B The Greenie
Yamaha CT1-B The Doppelgänger
Yamaha CT1-C
Yamaha AT1-C
2020 Honda CB500X
07 Dec 2021 01:50 #19

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