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This should be the one. 10x1.25 extended nose & pushes from the bottom of the hole. I've had one for 50 years but easier to link this than to go & find mine for a pic haha. My AT1 has magneto so not related to this puller but i have the puller because it fits lots of generator models twins too from when i worked in the shop. Cheers from NZ.

www.cmsnl.com/products/pullerarmature-iso_9089001111/

Just another thought. If you had a long enough 10x1.25 bolt that reached the end of the crank & relieved a few threads so it wouldn't flatten over & not want to come back out. Then bolt would push on the crank end not go down in but theoretically the same result so should pop off. Can see the end of the crank not far in when advancer is removed.

will the threads work for the AT1.  I thought I read that the pitch is different.  I think I need M10x1.25.  thanks!

I needed to pull the armature on my AT1 and the actual pullers were out of stock. I sourced a box of 10x1.25 fully threaded bolts.  2.75" long. It works on RD350, RD400's and for sure the AT1's (electric start only version) and similar. Selling for $8.00 ea  plus shipping. 

imgur.com/FlbXOYr

I put the intro in the intro section.  My son and his friend dragged home a '75 DT125 that had set outside for many years.  They started pulling it apart (piston was froze and cylinder pitted).  It appeared something in the crank was also hitting a stop so was in the process of taking it the rest of the way apart.

Hit a stall with this armature removal while I ordered some 10x1.25 threaded bolts.  That did the trick.  And sitting with penetrating oil for a few more days (and the impact wrench removing the armature) seems to have loosened up the crank so it now turns over!  Decided we needed to pull it the rest of the way apart anyway to see what it looks like before going back together.  Clutch discs in the pics.  And now need to get the clutch housing off (not sure the proper name).  Requires another 'special' tool so will be making that next.

 

I would have thought 8mm x1.25. 10mm sounds a bit overkill to hold the tank down.
Might have to withdraw that statement as found a pic of a nut with that number & looks big. Even if it 'is' 10mm the thread will be 1.25 still.
Edit 3 haha. Didn't see KennyV post, so 10x1.25 it is then.

I made a puller out of a Honda CB750F engine mount bolt by spinning more threads with a 10X1.25mm die. It's never failed me!

Several other sources and options discussed here:
www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/...te=all&childforums=1

I'm thinking you have the electric start model so puller is a 10x1.25 thread with an extended nose.
`10x1.25 pitch.
Nose bit is 31mm long & 5.5mm diameter. 10mm bit is 87mm long. I think the nose bit bottoms out in the hole so the 100mm bit doesn't contact the end of the taper. I think a 10mm 1.25 pitch good tensile strength bolt would still do the job ok pushing on the end of the shaft if you were stuck but i'd taper the first few threads a little to avoid a problem when you smack the bolt after tightening as might try & swell the end of the bolt then be difficult to wind out without a fight.

``10x1.25 pitch.
Nose bit is 31mm long & 5.5mm diameter. 10mm bit is 87mm long. I think the nose bit bottoms out in the hole so the 100mm bit doesn't contact the end of the taper. I think a 10mm 1.25 pitch good tensile strength bolt would still do the job ok pushing on the end of the shaft if you were stuck but i'd taper the first few threads a little to avoid a problem when you smack the bolt after tightening as might try & swell the end of the bolt then be difficult to wind out without a fight.