Still can't get a spark in my 72 DT2.    I have the harness coming up from the stator disconnected.  I have the black wire from the stator connected to the black wire on the coil. I've disconnected the white plug for the ignition switch.    I turn the engine with a power drill on the flywheel and still get zero spark.  My stator was rebuilt by Deet so I'm positive it's OK.  

Am I doing this right so far?  Sure feels like something is still disconnected or not making a connection.   Any/all help is appreciated.  
 

Are you spinning engine counterclockwise?

Did DEET have your coil and plug cap to test with stator?

Are any other wires connected to ignition coil on frame other than the jumper from black (black/white) out of stator directly to small wire on ignition coil?

Just a thought--Does the stator black have a short female covered connection sticking out on the way up from the mag but in the mag loom. & have you mistakenly connected 'that' to earth somewhere. Should be left alone.
I guess you set the points so are opening & closing. If you spin it with a drill in the dark you would likely see a small spark at the points. If not then disconnect the wire at the plug coil & try again. Turns anti clock facing it of course.

Still no spark.  Yes, I'm spinning it counter clockwise.  Had a ground wire connected to bolt holding the coil but removed it and still no spark.   Points opening and closing.   No spark there either.  

I tried disconnecting the black wire in the loom from the coil and that didn't change anything.  

You also asked if Deet tested the coil with the stator.  Answer is no.   I bought the new coil (from Deet) several months after he rebuilt the stator.   They have not been tested together.   Need a plan B.  
 

Always worth giving the points faces a clean, even if done once already. A friend of mine very kindly gave me a proper points file and it makes things very easy.

I 'think' i'd go back to the points & check that the wire to it hasn't been accidentally fitted under the insulating washer rather than on top. I know you say DEET rebuilt it so you have the best man on the job there, but just thinking--since then has there been a bit of playing around going on. Maybe not the best choice of words, but be good to get some sign of life out of it. If you had an analogue ohms meter you should see a very small variation between open & closed. Don't turn it far--or fast movement--just cracking to open & back an inch to contacting closed. I think MarkT says zero when closed &--only a little when open. My meter is old--like me--so won't zero, but i can still see the difference on the needle which is what you're looking for--contact then no contact. Hope i'm right or Mark correct me please. I only know what works for me!!.
Now i start editing lol--just to add, this checking can be done via the black so don't need to go probing in through the flywheel window to the points.

Yes, I can see a difference on my ohmmeter between open and closed points.  Small but repeatable.  (I measured with the red probe on the black wire from the loom and grounded the black probe on the frame.) 

Should I still check the wire to the points?  

No i wouldn't go to the points now as sounds like open & closed is registering. You can see in through the flywheel if its on the insulating side of the washer--but it must be as testing that way. Run out of ideas without being there. Do you get some sort of AC voltage reading to the black by spinning it?. In fact 'i think' if you isolated the points from earth with--cut off a bit of your credit card [that'll stop ya spending more money too] & slide it in the points, then spin it with the drill. I don't know what you'd get but its a 6 volt AC system but must get up quite high [someone done it?] i'll guess 20 ac volts. But are you getting anything to start with.

Did you get a new spark plug cap? DEET does a super job did you contact him 

Are the points opening at the right spot? There's a small chisel mark at the top of one of the flywheel windows that lines up with a tab at 1.8 BTDC, when the points should just start opening. Here's a video I made using a test light, with a line on yellow tape showing where that mark is, and you can see the light dims right when it hits the tab.

youtube.com/shorts/Gu8YPB2Rvzw?feature=share