It the time of the year that I will start dismantling my ride to pretty it up a bit. I pray everything will go well, including the swing arm removal this time since I did not remove it on the rebuild. I am concerned first off about the front tubes. They were tough to remove, but were a complete BEAR to reinstall. It took forever doing so without damage to the finish or oblongating the tubes. I used a straight screwdriver to open the clamps a bit so I think, didn't want to go too far with that for fear of snapping one of them off.
Is there anything that would help in the removal so I can paint these parts properly?

Also many parts on my 73 MX250 are rusty, any diagram/picture to show which are cad plate vs. chrome? Some are obvious many aren't.

You can use a large flat screwdriver or a small pry bar. You won’t snap a triple clamp moving it 1/4” over loose. If you have a second person great. I did a 71’ DT1 front recently but the bike sat on top of a scaffold.

  You can use a large flat screwdriver or a small pry bar. You won’t snap a triple clamp moving it 1/4” over loose. If you have a second person great. I did a 71’ DT1 front recently but the bike sat on top of a scaffold.

 

Thanks a bunch. I had no idea how much "give" the metal has since it was a casting. I am familiar with cast iron, and it is brittle like nothing else. So then it may be, since it is a cast metal, but not cast iron, it can still move what I need to get them to come out easier than what I have experienced so far.

Did my 71 dt1 a few days ago, and one had to be beaten out from the top and a long stick even after separating the clamp with a flat head. Used a brake hone on the clamps before reinstall, and they went in without a hitch.

Just started restoring my 76 DT400, mine slid right out no problem. Guess I got lucky on that!

My experience is if they are bent they are a bugger to remove. The clamp shouldn’t have to be spread much or at all. The more you bend it the more out-of-round you’ll make it leading to misalignment of wheel and bars. I always check wheel alignment back to front and observe handlebars when getting wheels aligned. I’ve done a lot with big Harleys and use the same procedure with my Yamahas. The brake hone is a good idea. Just be careful as the tubes should slide right in if nothing is bent. I’ll use a film of grease when sliding them in if necessary. Anyway, good luck!

Thanks for the tips. I used a flat blade screwdriver to pry the clamps open just a bit, quite the tough drive getting it to stay. Wanted to keep falling out. Did the same on reinstall, didn't do any beating, just lots of cloth with round jaw channel locks twisting and twisting and.... to get them back in. Took forever. This time I will grind a piece of metal with a longer taper, in hopes it will stay once driven in.

Could use something parallel slightly thicker than the gap with a slight starting taper. Not keen on a big wedge though. Don't think i've ever had to spread them but just turn them trying not to mark them. Or could turn the cap with a socket which turns the tube & push down at the same time. Plus a squirt of penetrating oil helps. If very rusty above the lower clamp just strop them up in place before removing.

Thanks RT325, the tubes are great shape, I don't know why they were being so contrary (hence the question, duh) I am concerned about wedging the gap, didn't want to snap it off. Wasn't go to go overboard with it anyways. I like the idea about the socket at the top, to get them out. I haven't tried anything yet, just getting started. Still, the trick will be getting them back in. I read about honing the inside just a bit to help and not to go overboard with it. It seems like spreading the clamps just a smidge, are the only fix for me.... Come to think of it, the socket trick may help too, the rotation and upward force should help immensely.

Theoreticaly--wonderful thing that lol--if clean then they 'should' just slide in holding & turning back & forth by hand, spray of lube maybe. Should be fine. Not like the old days with my Matchless forks from about 1950 model, had to drive them out & pull them in. If my old memory is right the clamps had closed end slots so just a split. I'll go look as might be wrong.
Found one, if link works.
www.vintage-motorcycle.com/en/parts/fork...tchless-g3l-used11-8