I measure a NOS clutch push rod at 7.25". It extends out the left side at 1.25".

Thank you! I'll check that this afternoon

The clutch pack is either too tall or the cover is too short.

It could have been the adjustment, the worm gear actuator, too long a pushrod, maybe even an extra ball...  all of which would have caused the "mushroom head" pushrod to stick out and push on the pressure plate...  clutch would likely slip under power. 

Most important thing to check regarding pushrod is how far it extends out the left side...  if pushrod sticks out too far, the rod could be bottomed on the actuator and not the adjustment screw.  Leave the adjustment screw as is when you remove the left cover and then inspect to see if the tip of the screw is extending past the end of the actuator.

People have tried to help with manual links with factory diagrams and photos as well as actual pictures of a 68 clutch...  all of which you say was "not necessary"...  

The thing is we can't see what you're seeing...  Pictures can be posted using a hosting service like Imgur, Photobucket, Google Photos, etc and posting the links here.  Video can be uploaded to YouTube or Vimeo and the link posted here.

 

Use a 3rd party site like imgur to post pics. With imgur you can copy the bbcode to get the pic to show in the post or you can just post the link. Good luck with your quest, looks like you're making headway.

"...People have tried to help with manual links with factory diagrams and photos as well as actual pictures of a 68 clutch...  all of which you say was "not necessary"...  

Mark - I wrote "wasn't necessary" and "thank you" b/c I appreciate the effort of the picture.  AND - I had asked for that pic of the clutch pack, so of course I'm going to be appreciative.  I had written "wasn't necessary" b/c I ended up not needing it - not b/c I felt otherwise.  Perhaps I might be reacting wrongly to the intention of your words, but the message I'm getting from  you it is that you're viewing my response as unappreciative.... and that is simply not the case.  Regarding the manual - which you suggested and provided a link.  It hasn't provided anything I don't already know .  That''s a fact and I basically said that.  But I clearly acknowledged that its beneficial to have it regardless.  Please don't think otherwise.  I hope this clears any misunderstanding you may have had.

Now, regarding the clutch issue.... I will examine the rod protrusion this afternoon when I get home.  I'm anxious to see if there's anything out of the ordinary there.  Particularly Mark, what you mentioned regarding the head of the adjustment screw contacting the push rod.  I'm anxious to get home and look that over

Here are the pics I couldn't post earlier today.  Hopefully they'll be there when this post...posts 

I DO NOT UNDERSTAND THESE LINKS BELOW OR WHERE THEY'RE COMING FROM.  MY POST - BEFORE SUBMITTING & WHEN RE-OPENING TO EDIT - DISPLAYS THE PICTURES!
FRUSTRATING TO SAY THE LEAST!

IT'S FIXED!

I never did find the smoking gun, but I removed the entire clutch assembly and then carefully reinstalled.
Perhaps the flat bearing fell off and behind the long spacer?  That would've (I think) pushed everything outwards.
So, likely that the entire assembly although looking proper from the perspective of plate & disc stack up was out and away from the case and thus hitting the inside of the cover.

Driveway test ride tomorrow morning.

Thanks fellas for the suggestions & guidance.

Mark - sent you a pm

Onwards!

I just wrote a long speil & £$^g lost the bloody lot on my vintage ipad. Start again try to remember.
Ok in my opinion you are chasing the wrong thing. Forget the pushrod & mushroom.
Why is the center too far to the right.
Has someone used a 360 hub which thinking back 50 years is wider hence wider 360 cover.
Basket was the same on 250 & 360 i think but not hub so sits narrower hence narrower 250 cover.
Is the center nut showing thread when tightened.
Does the hub turn freely without plates!!.
""Now seriously, has the circlip holding the mainshaft bearing in the case been left out"" so when you pull the clutch the complete shaft moves over!!.
Have you red my earlier post.
I'll ponder more--has a 360 mainshaft been fitted thinking maybe longer, although 360 didn't arrive until 1970 & had finer teeth so would need to be the complete trans--forget that thought.
I'm off to get firewood. Have a happy day--when it fixed.
One more--does the basket & crank gear teeth line up or close to lining up central.

Sorry haha i'm way behind the 8 ball. FIXED is good.
I should've read up to date but started on my old i pad that doesn't update--like me its a page behind lol--so when i added a smiley & posted it all went missing so started again on my laptop without looking. Ignore my post.
Feel proud you sorted it yourself.

I've had a thrust washer get pinched by the spacer. I've seen different amounts of taper on that spacer. Seems to me that it should not have a taper. On one of my 360s I ground off .015" to reduce the taper.

Plus put a dab of grease on the thrust washer to hold it in place while assembling.

Thanks fellas
RT325 - thankfully I unwittingly uncovered it.  All that info. you posted earlier made my head hurt!  I'd never figure any of that out!

1971DT250 - Whatever I did made a difference.  I'm not certain that was the issue, but I think it's a good bet.  I assembled so very carefully.  Now I'm anxious to test ride it tomorrow morning.  That'll be the final exam for sure.  But for now, the clutch plates are moving as they should when the lever is pulled and I've got full range of motion at the lever.

I'll post the test ride results tomorrow.

RT325 - I too have felt the frustration of typing out long, detailed thoughts only to have them dissapear.  Very frustrating for sure!