The bike was running really well until yesterday when it just cut off while it was still warming up. I’m having a hard time figuring out how to track the issue down. I’ve cleaned the points -no spark, disconnected the main switch (no kill switch on this bike). Referring to the manual, I connected positive lead of multimeter, set at 20k ohms, to the black wire coming out of the secondary coil and the ground to the metal “mounting bracket “ and got 0.00 reading. The coil was removed from the bike while doing this. Are those the correct testing locations? On the primary coil, I read between the black wire and the screw on the windings opposite the condenser with the points separated and I’m getting 0.00 again. The contacts look really worn too. I tried to upload some pics but it looks like they are not working. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

To test stator coil reading and points operation, best to have an analog meter with a Rx1 scale.  20k isn't going to cut it. 

Are the points opening at all?

What Mark said!!.
Tis odd that it just cut dead while running. Not just crook plug, i've been fooled before. Crank key ok? except it'd still spark if broken, just fire in wrong place. i spin mine plug out with a drill in reverse as makes it easier than puffing away kicking & looking at the plug. By reverse i mean drill in reverse to spin the motor anti clock as per normal.

Thanks!, seems an analog meter that reads in the single digits is harder to locate than I thought. A friend has a fluke meter that he is bringing over tomorrow that he says will be able to read resistance at micro ohms accurately ? I’ve pulled the stator off of the bike to make it easier to test. The woodruff key was in place when I removed the flywheel but I did not check to see if the points were actually opening. I was expecting 4 wires out of the stator (yellow,green,white and black) but there is another black wire with a bullet connector that’s about 6” shorter and I don’t see a connection for. I’m not seeing it in the wiring diagram either. The other end was soldered to the condenser. Is there a connection for the other end?

Don't panic about the short black. It just branches off the main black & an easy way to connect your points checker ohms meter. Or connect a kill switch if you had a reason to, like running a basic ignition & no lights or wiring loom, where you'd have the long black to the coil & short black to kill switch. Something like that. I'm cursing the day my original points checker--which i think came from yamaha--i left the battery in it when CDI came along. Then many years later--it was rotten inside when i looked. Gave a very low ohms reading with a big swing of the needle from open to closed.
Quick google & found a pic of the points checker.
photos.app.goo.gl/9AD7ZzdcidA9eHGx8

Probably not easy to find analog Rx1 meter at a local store.  Many available on Amazon and Ebay

Fluke might be okay...  many digital meters don't work well for this though.
 

Thanks for the responses everyone! I really appreciate all of the help. Using the fluke meter I got 1.5 ohms on the stator. I had the red wire from the meter on the black wire coming right off of the winding (condenser removed) and the black lead from the meter on the stator plate. On the coil, red lead on the black wire and black lead on the mounting frame, I got .9 ohms. Then I moved the red lead to the plug wire cap and got 14.83 k ohms. With the spark plug cap removed, it read 4.9 k ohms. On the condenser, with red to the top and black to the mounting strap I’m getting .313 micro F. I took pictures of all of this but can’t get them to upload. All of these seem to be just a little bit out of range according to the service manual. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

BDub

1.5 ohms with points open?  What is your stator reading with points closed?

That reading is with the stator removed from the bike and on the bench. The points and condenser are removed from the stator. I had the red lead on the black wire coming out of the winding and the black lead in the stator plate. 

If i'm on the right planet & while i'm looking--just test the points themself to see if contacting when closed. Should read zero. If i'm thinking right way round. Just to be sure theyre making & breaking so test closed then open incase the insulating small piece is missing from where the bolt goes through. Mind you i think nowdays they do it with plastic & a step down so you can't go wrong there.