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Tool needed for 76 YZ125X forks.

  • Grussell
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Tool needed for 76 YZ125X forks. was created by Grussell

Anyone know where to get the tool for a 76YZ125X to hold the fork cylinder to get the bolt out of the lower fork?
1978 DT400
1975 DT250
1976 YZ125C (in progress)
1976 YZ125X (in progress)
2018 YZ250FX (my race bike)
2010 Triumph America (my cruiser)
18 Oct 2020 20:03 #1

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Replied by RT325 on topic Tool needed for 76 YZ125X forks.

Link below doesn't give a clear view but looks like it steps up at the top. If you look down in there, what do you see. Is there a way of holding the damper. I'm guessing you still have the air forks or original tops but could you add some stiff old springs to give it something to bind on while turning the allen bolt. Better idea might be to use an air wrench--rattle gun, & hold the forks topped out while rattling the bolt out so topping it out will pull against the underside of the damper--or the topping out spring & damper so might help.
19 Oct 2020 04:18 #2

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Replied by Grussell on topic Tool needed for 76 YZ125X forks.

I ended up using a long extension with a 16 point 13mm socket which fit perfect on the 12mm slotted cylinder. Used impact on the allen bolt and both forks are apart. All of the parts to rebuild them came in this week.
1978 DT400
1975 DT250
1976 YZ125C (in progress)
1976 YZ125X (in progress)
2018 YZ250FX (my race bike)
2010 Triumph America (my cruiser)
The following user(s) Liked this Post: MarkT
31 Oct 2020 14:32 #3

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Replied by MACE6772 on topic Tool needed for 76 YZ125X forks.

I have an original Yamaha air gauge/ filler, to fit those forks if you are interested.
76 Dt 125 75 Dt 175 75 Dt 250 75 Dt 400 09 FZ6R
31 Oct 2020 14:37 #4

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Replied by KTM-Don on topic Tool needed for 76 YZ125X forks.

If anyone has been inside the canisters, I'd like to hear the tips and techniques. I thought I should be able move the free piston, air pressure on top, remove the schrader valve, push with a plastic rod from the bottom. I don't detect any movement, so I think they should be disassembled. Someone already tried and failed, as the hex pattern on the top cap is distorted. Looks like aluminum cap on an aluminum body, so they could be well seized after 30+ years.
25 Jan 2021 08:21 #5

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Replied by Grussell on topic Tool needed for 76 YZ125X forks.

Try heat. That got mine apart. But not to hot to damage the diaphragm inside. Here is a picture of the parts in order to get the seals out. I had to pry mine out. Used a heat gun first. Take care if you pry, the aluminum will dent easy.
1978 DT400
1975 DT250
1976 YZ125C (in progress)
1976 YZ125X (in progress)
2018 YZ250FX (my race bike)
2010 Triumph America (my cruiser)
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Last edit: 25 Jan 2021 17:14 by Grussell.
25 Jan 2021 16:29 #6

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  • Grussell
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Replied by Grussell on topic Tool needed for 76 YZ125X forks.

Double post deleted.
1978 DT400
1975 DT250
1976 YZ125C (in progress)
1976 YZ125X (in progress)
2018 YZ250FX (my race bike)
2010 Triumph America (my cruiser)
Last edit: 25 Jan 2021 17:13 by Grussell.
25 Jan 2021 17:12 #7

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Replied by KTM-Don on topic Tool needed for 76 YZ125X forks.

Thanks, I do have the forks apart now, and I've located the wipers and seals. Wipers were superseded with a -01 version, which is why I could not find the -00 parts. I found a KTM clutch nut in a junk box that was a good fit for the canister top. I'll try fitting it to a bolt with a locknut to serve as the cap tool, a real 27mm hex looks like it will cost a bit. The canister cap and the 48mm shock seal head are my last disassembly challenges on this restoration.

I appreciate the help!
26 Jan 2021 04:38 #8

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Replied by Grussell on topic Tool needed for 76 YZ125X forks.

You should post some pictures. Would love to see another one.
1978 DT400
1975 DT250
1976 YZ125C (in progress)
1976 YZ125X (in progress)
2018 YZ250FX (my race bike)
2010 Triumph America (my cruiser)
26 Jan 2021 08:27 #9

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Replied by KTM-Don on topic Tool needed for 76 YZ125X forks.

OK, I was able to get inside the canisters without too much drama. The hex indent had been buggered by someone in a previous attempt, so I was a little nervous.

I found a 16mm nut that was 27 mm diameter across the flats. I ground down the taper on the face of the nut to get a square surface to seat into the cap.


My fixture was a 32mm end wrench clamped in my soft-jaw vise. I was able to slide the canister assembly into the wrench to apply some torque. As a side note, the top schrader valve was heavily treated with thread lock, so a little heat on the cap was needed to get the valve out.


The rest was just patience and the right amount of pressure. I heated the silver base with a propane torch, it took a couple of applications. It was hot enough that the penetrating oil I had put in the cap was starting to smoke. The nut fit into the hex recess, and was tall enough to get a good grip with a 27mm end wrench.

Once I had the cap off, I used my shock air pump to push out the piston. I had the assembly upside down, and wrapped it all in a rag so that the piston would not go flying across the shop. It took just a couple of pumps, and the piston popped out.


Thankfully, everything was clean and shiny inside. I do not see that the orings are available as spare parts, considering re-using the originals. Once I coated the Orings and inside of the cap with my favorite seal grease, the piston moved relatively easily.

So that was it!
26 Jan 2021 14:24 #10

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