I'm not so certain on the rules of swearing on such forums, but I fucked up. bought an old t20 for 100$ on facebook, it's beat to hell. motor was stuck, but when I freed it up I discovered that it was a mint motor. unfortunately, being the idiot beginner"ish" college student I am, I didn't see a small socket fall into the motor. tried to crank it up the next day, and it bent my right side rod after it fired up. I know, I know, learning curve. Upon taking everything apart, I found a destroyed piston, and a broken port window. those two things can get fixed, but there's a problem; that rod. that being said....... That's what my rod looks like. it's definitely bent, but is there any way I can bend it back? the t20 is an extremely overbuilt motor, and If my project is successful it will definitely get replaced in the near future so I'm not worried about it going 10,000 miles. It has no fractures in the metal, I'm thinking heating it red and carefully bending it without jarring force should push it back into place. Obviously things will get slightly stretched, so precise measuring with a micrometer before and after will happen, as well as some corrections. outside of that, anybody have any t20 rods or cranks? I might be looking for one.

RT325 probably has the most experience with stuff like that... I'd tend to replace the rod now cause if it breaks you'll really have trouble.

On straightening it, I don't think heating it red would be a good idea... cold pressing might be better? Not sure though. Hopefully RT325 or someone that knows for sure will answer.

Ha, thanks Mark. Was just thinking--i'll keep out of this lol. My only experience was with a yamy TY250 back in the late "70's where a customer at work used to regularly drown his TY falling off crossing a creek. Well, twice anyway, & each time it bent the rod sideways from hydraulicing up probably with a far handful of revs on. I just bent it back straight cold & measured it best way i could. Only had the cylinder off, not motor right in bits. I dunno with yours though. For the slight difference its going to make, maybe just forget the forward bend--or backwards whichever it is--& just make sure its vertical & not leaning over one way. T20 was a great bike & maybe the first with 6 speed--trouble was, i worked in the yamaha shop in those days so couldn't have one haha.

As you bend a rod you shorten it, meaning that now your piston will not travel up as far in the cylinder decreasing compression and the piston skirt will risk contact with the crank and in extreme cases the skirt may drop into the counter bore to far. This being a parallel twin, if both rods are not exactly the same length it will run very poorly and unbalanced. That crank will undoubtedly need to be trued as well. If it were me I would replace the rod, splitting a crank and truing it is not terribly difficult to do. All you need is an arbor press, V blocks, wedges, a soft face mallet, and good dial indicator on a surface base or magnet. I'm sure there are plenty of videos on YouTube. If you don't have access to these things a good shop that works on 2 stroke should be able to do it.

There are 7 rods (some in pairs) on eBay. 1 as low as $70. Bill Bune Enterprises in Minnesota rebuilt a T20 crank for a buddy of mine...actually made 1 crank set out of 2 as the original crank's left weight un-pinned itself from the rod pin destroying the crank weight's bore. I think the entire crank rebuild was less than $200 labor, + bearings & seals.

+1 on Bill Bune. We had him do the " Greenie " crank. Single con rod 1978 DT125e.
Gave him all the parts we purchased before hand, Cost around $70 for labor plus another $30 for shipping. Great investment there !

www.billbune.com/

Con Rod
www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/12161-1...d4d35c6f7a4e5a6e9c6e

Hey there, I have 1 rod (maybe 2 can't recall) from a 66 X6 Hustler (T20). I had bought all new top end parts and seals for an engine rebuild but kept them. The engine had about 7K miles on it. I am on a trip right now and won't be home till early October. I live in Florida. If you PM me I will send you the rods and you may be able to use one on your bike. No cost. Good luck, Tim

A thumb's up for Bill Bune.

Maybe not cheap, but you get what you pay for, for sure.