Pulling the head again

The RT2 project has been going on for about five years so I have forgotten disassembly. Now nearly back together. I thought I had bought new points and condenser but couldn’t find them and I was keen to press on, so I cleaned and timed the points then put the head on. Then I discovered the head has to be off to get a spanner on the decompressor to instal it. Then I found the little box with the points and condenser. If the head is coming off, I might as well pull the side cover and flywheel and replace the points and condenser. One step forward and two backward.

The surprising thing is that after five years disassembled to the last nut and bolt and a house move, the only missing item so far is the retaining clip for the speedo drive. Even that might turn up eventually.

Not sure if i said welcome--so Welcome it is. with the flywheel i can't stress enough how important it is to tighten it super tight, solidly tight, using a tool hooked into the flywheel. Every one of mine over the years has been stuffed by previous owners & damn it i got a written off crash job done about 900k's or miles back in the day & eventualy sold it to a mate [mate also from the yamaha shop where i worked just to makes things worse] & he decided pull the flywheel for some reason & same story, didn't tighten properly & bingo, key gone & taper damaged.

Can't stress enough about tightening, sorry to harp on. Cheers from NZ.

What's the torque spec?

Wow! I thought I was the only one that got a new clutch cable (kdi) too long! I made my spacer from an 8mm lever wheel adjuster, had to die grind a slot in the flat of an 8 x 1.25 nut for cable but it works fine, have 2 adjustments (well 3 if you add pushrod adjuster), old bikes, fun yah? seems there's always something to engineer w/stuff on hand to avoid returns or whatever! What did you make yours from? Looks as if a lathe may have been involved, thats the one thing I miss, next door (to my shop) had a couple of them I was able to use, made all kinds of stuff. A couple of different welders, lathe & a milling machine & you can fabricate a spacecraft!

7-7.5 KpM on flywheel nut

Did you add the chain roller? Like your "peg" spring, and is that a "bead" I c on the shifter? Kool! I nominate you in the "fix anything but a broken heart club" LOL

liferbiker wrote: Wow! I thought I was the only one that got a new clutch cable (kdi) too long! I made my spacer from an 8mm lever wheel adjuster, had to die grind a slot in the flat of an 8 x 1.25 nut for cable but it works fine, have 2 adjustments (well 3 if you add pushrod adjuster), old bikes, fun yah? seems there's always something to engineer w/stuff on hand to avoid returns or whatever! What did you make yours from? Looks as if a lathe may have been involved, thats the one thing I miss, next door (to my shop) had a couple of them I was able to use, made all kinds of stuff. A couple of different welders, lathe & a milling machine & you can fabricate a spacecraft!

Good spot!

A brand new repro cable was supplied with my RT2, but that was too long. I've got it stored away somewhere and ended up buying a period nos pattern part which fits fine.

Apparently the air cooled RD350 shares the same cable, but those, of course, are in black.

liferbiker wrote: Did you add the chain roller? Like your "peg" spring, and is that a "bead" I c on the shifter? Kool! I nominate you in the "fix anything but a broken heart club" LOL

Sorry, i don't mean to take up space on someones post--but just realised you're talking to me. Chain roller i added years ago because i have a long travel RM125 Swinging arm & RM or PE front forks [long story]. The gear lever because the splines on the shaft are stuffed i locked it in place by drilling longways so ended up with half the hole in the shaft & half in the lever, themn threaded it to 6mm & what you see is just a 6mm allen screw. Probably left the lever very slightly loose when tapping so when screw is in place i can tighten it right up on the clamp & be nice & tight on the screw.