Yes, there are 5 options on the single source coil kits. An 'A' winding is for more high speed work and E is for Trials where great starting, idling and low end power is important. The CDi and the winding work together to give the timing curve, we can change the CDi to shape the curve BUT you have to know what you want - we're electronic engineers not engine tuners! These are great kits but they do run out of puff at very high RPMs. The 'A's are wound to give much better top end performance - the RMK-3 comes with a 'B' winding. The trials versions that will be out there soon run 'E's. This still runs at high RPM but its very out of breath once you go above 3/4 of the RPM range - its extremely rare to use this range on a Trials machine so they prefer to have all their power low down.

And just when you get your head round that we're nearly there on a "dual power" system which has a double source coil, one which is optimised for low speed and one for high. This one the CDi unit entirely controls the timing curve and it does not run out of puff at very high RPMs, if anything the output becomes higher the faster you spin it and it will allow RPMs over the standard red line. There will be single timing curve boxes and variable. The Variable one lets you TRIM the static timing point at the box, no messing about moving the back plate and it'll shape the curve.

Very cool!

Firstly, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
You've read about how I rewound my 400 lighting coil?---I hope your shop has an appropriate meat grinder? I think I'll pull the stator cover off and have a look for signs of overheating based on what you are saying. Just to be safe.
I am running a large capacity regulator, from a Suzuki Burgman scooter, (they have a huge electrical load---grip warmers, power points, power mirrors and windshield etc) and my initial thought was that it would be more than enough to handle whatever my rewound coil could produce. Any thoughts on this?

Relic

We have a couple of CNC winding machines so no meat grinder needed!

Well its been working fine so must all be OK! Really though you don't need a big regulator unit - a coil like this is never going to make much more than 120 watts due to the volume of iron around which the copper is wrapped. This is why we stick with supplying the lights with AC as to rectify power there are losses in the regulator/rectifier. If you use AC there are no losses so more power available for the main headlamp.

It does make the winding more complicated to make as you have to stop mid wind and create a tail for the lights to be fed from but it does leave more power for the head light and it means there virtually no changes to the bike's wiring loom or switch gear. The only change is a new combined 12 volt regulator/rectifier and the wire that went to the old separate single phase rectifier is left disconnected.

We've ironed out all the bugs with the XT250/500 kits now we will be rolling out these kits for more bikes. The biggest problem now is getting hold of the old APF fitting bulbs in 12 volts!

Glad to have this confirmed,Also I am modding the stock coil since I am going with LED's so need no more amperage.Thanks for your input!

Reviving an older topic.

Rewinding the generator coil and reconfiguring the motorcycle for 12 volts appears fairly straightforward based on the excellent info posted by Relic and others.

This was done on a CDI equipped 76 DT400. Has anyone done this on a non electronic ignition RT2 or similar points type ignition?

Would like to build the Rickman Yamaha using a 12 volt system, with DC output allowing me to run LED headlight and taillight / braklight.

Hi I am performing this right now but what’s not in this write up is at what point do you start the 2nd tee Off. On the original it starts at about the 2nd level of windings and runs about half way across. In the write up it says you can get up too 5 layers so do you still put the teed line on the last wrap or the 2nd ?