I’m new to this, so I hope it’s correct. Trying to replace #23 oil seal left side clutch diagram. The problem I am having is #20 and #24 are attached to each other. I see no way to slip oil seal over #20 lever push or #24 screw push without damaging seal. Am I not seeing something here. Thanks

What bike are you Talking about please? You will get the help you need if the group can see or look at a schematic of the bike you are asking about. And by the way,

Yamaha ct2

Kind of curious why you're replacing that dust seal?

Normally the seal that needs replacing if you have a leak around the clutch pushrod is #9 on the "transmission" diagram.

Ok, thanks. In the future I will not worry about this. So in the meantime I had cut the old one off without checking to see (first) if new one could be replaced. I did use rubber O rings to replace oil seal, as they can slip over and into place. Thanks for the teaching. First complete rebuild for me. This bike started 3rd kick and shifts, as it should after months of engine rebuild.

Congratulations!!!

On the seal #23, it can be replaced but lever is "peened" to the shaft so you'll probably need new parts to do it... Only time I ever did it was decades ago where the lever was damaged beyond repair by someone trying to remove the clutch cable...

I think I got a new lever, shaft, and seal... was a long time ago. I tried to find pictures of how to fix it but couldn't. The 125/175 doesn't have too many problems with those parts that cleaning and greasing won't fix so repair is not too common...

We did lots of those replacements when selling those bikes as farm bikes & eventually those worms would go tight & binding though lack of grease then the cable would pull the arm where it hooks in & then the arm or half of the nipple bit would break trying to straighten it. So had to drill the peened over bit to get the arm off then get some new bits--arm/worm/seal. Then main thing is to NOT start it on the wrong spline or you'll be kicking yourself. Have a practice shot & run the arm through it full up & down range before peening it over. My way of peening [albeit right or wrong] was to us a tapered punch initially to spread it a bit to hold the arm still then i'm sure i used the peening side of a small hammer & hit that hammer with a bigger hammer. [Yes i do dodgy things i know. Then when it's definitely on the way--just finish it a bit more with a flat punch. Doesn't take a lot to hold it so i'm probably exaggerating how much i beat it . Also you still need the hole in the middle left big enough to let the adjuster through or the pushrod into it whichever. I forgot Grease, must keep it lubed. Probably not a good idea for 'you' but i used to drill a small hole at a severe angle that came out about midway across the alloy case worm [maybe i drilled two opposing holes] so i could get a needle nose grease gun into it at service time as the old farmers were knee deep in cow dung & mud. Was very lucky not to break a small drill off doing that as was drilling them from new so were still assembled & required a gentle touch to feel it breaking through to touching the steel worm bit. Good nice free & lubed cable is a 'must'--or a new cable.