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Rear wheel spacer 69 L5T

20 Nov 2019 16:04 20 Nov 2019 22:18 by rodss67. Reason: Clarify
rodss67
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Rear wheel spacer 69 L5T #1
Does the bearing spacer matter if the side with the hole goes to the inside or the ouside of the hub .
Thanks

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21 Nov 2019 13:55
RT325
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Rear wheel spacer 69 L5T #2
That's a question i've never thought off. Think i just fit them in any which way. Washer is only there to keep spacer close to central for ease of axle entry especially if for some reason one bearing had move a fraction away from spacer while tapping the axle out. Ideally they should have two washers evenly spaced but that then relies on you having a tool with a hook piece to engage in the side hole so as to tap the bearings out. With one washer you can tilt it a fraction on the non washer end to then get at the bearing inner with a long punch. To get back to the question on re-thinking i suppose in hindsight i'd fit it so the washer is at the end that you fit the axle from ie sprocket side for me so that way the spacer is always in the center even if one bearing has moved away a mm or two. Just a thought & not very often relevant--i've seen spacer where the axle's been loose for years [old farm bikes down here] then because it's been free to rotate & jangle around it's worn the overall length shorter, so on replacing bearings the spacer isn't touching so you end up with bearings being pre-loaded & they'll fail quickly. Wheel would be tight to turn if this was the case. Your one looks like it came out of a good wheel. ok--short answer haha--fit it in so its nearer to the left side, sprocket side.

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21 Nov 2019 14:06 21 Nov 2019 14:09 by RT325.
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Rear wheel spacer 69 L5T #3
Sorry to be a damn pain. In hindsight i now see you're talking L5TA so therefor the wheel comes away leaving sprocket behind . so in 'your' case you'll be fitting the axle from the right side. So fit spacer with washer towards the brake side/right side. My reply above was more related to RT2 360 type wheels where sprocket carrier & wheel come off the bike as one unit.

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21 Nov 2019 16:07
rodss67
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Rear wheel spacer 69 L5T #4
Thank you sir. You are always a big help to me. That is a very understandable reason. I try to take lots of photos while in the tearing down process but i slipped up. And you are not a pain. I own that distinction!
Thanks,
Rodney

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21 Nov 2019 16:49
MarkT
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Rear wheel spacer 69 L5T #5
The "washer" is just there to prevent the spacer from sliding down when you pull out the axle.

If you don't have the tool to engage the hole to knock out the the first bearing, it's helpful to have the washer offset even more to one side... put the end with the washer closer towards the first bearing you want to remove the the next time you take it apart. This makes it easier to pry the spacer over a little and get a punch on the edge of it to knock out the first bearing.

Hope that makes sense.

1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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21 Nov 2019 17:01
rodss67
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Rear wheel spacer 69 L5T #6
Makes good sense. Thank you.

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23 Nov 2019 17:37
rodss67
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Rear wheel spacer 69 L5T #7
I went to install the bearings in the rear wheel tonight. The bearings tapped in very easy. When i flipped the wheel over to install the other the first dropped out. When i tapped it back in the other fell out. These are Nachi bearings. How snug should they fit in the hub? Thanks.

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23 Nov 2019 18:43 23 Nov 2019 18:52 by RT325.
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Rear wheel spacer 69 L5T #8
Oh, unlikely to be a bearing fault as they're all made to a std size not increments of smaller although in your case its a pity they're not available incrementaly bigger & we've all been there with loose bearings. Some loctite will fix it as sounds like it's only "just" not tight. Not trying to scare you but in some of the cases i've had where the bearing has flogged the hub real bad then other methods need to be used or the bearing can end up slightly out of line so you end up with the wheel gyrating around & the brake buggered up. Don't worry as just a drop of loctite bearing mount smeared around the bearing & a drop smeared in the hub piece & it'll be good. Only thing i'd do is leave it face down for a while to let the loctite 'go off' otherwise it might slide out when you flip it over. Then after a reasonable time [instructions on bottle] do the other side. [& don't forget the spacer].

Thinking back to my bsa b33 mx days the crank bearings would flog the case out real bad, so i used to solder the outer part of the bearing then set it up in the lathe & machine the solder back to what i calculated was needed for a tight fit & pressed it in. Worked a treat. Although one time i remember using some of dads caustic soda that was used to flush through the cowshed milking machine to give them a damn good clean out. So big bucket of boiling water & let the cases bubble away for 'too long' & came out "black" then the bearing 'fell in the holes'--so more solder required lol.

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23 Nov 2019 19:02
RT325
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Rear wheel spacer 69 L5T #9
Pic of the offending BSA B33 probably just before something broke again--like the conrod lol. Sorry, only posting it in relation to loose bearings. Happy to remove if ya want.

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23 Nov 2019 21:55
rodss67
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Rear wheel spacer 69 L5T #10
Thanks for answer and I enoy the stories and the photo's that go with them.

Rodney

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