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Clutch Engagement 1978 DT175

26 Oct 2020 13:18
Posts: 1
Topic Author
Clutch Engagement 1978 DT175 #1
I have been working on my bike for about 5 months now. Got to a point, where I would pull the clutch lever in and attempt to accelerate, the bike would just sit there not moving. At first I believed the plates had worn down, so I replaced them but didn't seem to help much. Then reasoned it could be a stretched clutch cable, so I replaced that. After adjusting the lever to where it lines up with the nub on the case, the plates seem to move less. I had read elsewhere that the pushrod assembly would be another area to inspect if the clutch is not engaging. I will attach a few pictures of the basket. One being the lever at rest and the next being fully engaged. There is hardly a difference, as you can see. Just wondering what's the best direction to take at this point?

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26 Oct 2020 14:09
Posts: 5433
Clutch Engagement 1978 DT175 #2
Think we're talking slightly back to front but hey that doesn't matter. I think you mean you release the lever rather than pull the lever in. So working along that line, if the clutch doesn't grip & drive ya going to have to dismantle it & see if there's something going on like the end pressure plate is bottoming out before compressing the plates. That thought might make some sense looking at the very slight movement between released & lifting of the clutch looking at the very little difference in your pics. Mind you there's not a lot of lifting that happens but more than your pics show. Ok, here's a thought--"i think" & might be wrong, that there's only a certain way the end plate will fit & compress the plates. I think you might get 3 shots out of 5 as there's 3 little marks on the end of the center 'call it the hub' & probably 3 marks on the pressure plate. I wouldn't worry too much about looking at the marks because you'll know straight away if its on right otherwise it'll sit up & not compress. If none of what i said is on the right track, you'll have to get in there & study it closely then come back please. Not lifting to free the clutch & not gripping when releasing are two different problems really. Do you have the ball bearing 26 between the pushrod & mushroom. Looking at the parts pic it's not a mushroom but an adjustable rod. So--start again. Once you are sure the pressure plate is on right, then adjust the rod so the arm sit about with the alignment mark or a little bit before the mark. Then lock up the adjuster nut. Any cable excess should be adjustable at the lever adjuster unless the cable has a midway built in adjuster. If so then you get two shots at adjusting free play. Sorry--long story but i've typed it now one finger, so make of it what you will.
But wait there's more haha--Also, can you sit it in top gear, or a high gear with the cover off 'as it sits' & turn the wheel against compression, or stop the crank turning somehow & watch the clutch to see it slipping 'not gripping'--then look into the clutch how it stacks up--if you see it slipping. If its not driving it sure is 'slipping big time'.


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26 Oct 2020 17:07
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Posts: 8623
Clutch Engagement 1978 DT175 #3
Ummm... yeah... it seems that there's some basic misunderstandings or I might be confused about what you're saying...

I'm going to use the terms "grab" and "slip" for what the clutch does instead of "engage" and "disengage".

When the clutch "grabs" with the trans in gear, the bike moves. When the clutch slips with the trans in gear, the bike won't move.

Pulling the clutch lever makes the clutch slip. (opposite of what you said)

A stretched cable would make the clutch grab. (opposite of the reason you replaced the cable)

A clutch that doesn't move much when lever is pulled (because of adjustment or whatever) should grab... yet from your description the bike won't move so clutch is slipping.

Hopefully that makes sense so far...

My first observation is the bolts used to hold the pressure plate are generic... the bolts might not be compressing the springs properly allowing the clutch to slip.

1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250

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